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Tags: adjustment, Car, cylinder, dvd, engine, firing, lash, Order, Racing, rebuilding, repair, rocker, specs, torque, V6, V8, valve, Video
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
No it is 90 degrees it takes 720 degrees of crank rotation to go through firing order divided by 8 cyl equals 90 degrees .crank rotates two revolutions per one revolution of cam
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
you rotate the engine an eighth of a turn to get to the next valve right not a quarter, right?
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
I remember in class one of my friends dropped a valve keeper (on sohc 92 honda). We looked for it for days! And without the right tool those are a pain to install.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
correction to my first post, the rails are to keep the rockers from squirming around on the valve, you can’t really see them on the rockers in the video but they are there.
And I’ll also bet you have to grind the tip of the valves to remove them as they have mushroomed and will not fit through the valve guides anymore, don’t force them or your guides will be ruined, too.
This is a very bad situation, get it fixed if you haven’t already.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
damned youtube, this is an answer to 19LivetoDrive80. and I also see that you posted 2 months ago. you still running this motor? I’ll bet you can visibily see that your puchrods are getting concave where they rub the cylinder head plus your oil filter is full of metal shavings and the ingested metal has worn your oil pump badly.
Don’t Run This Motor Any More until you get this fixed. You will likely have to replace your pushropds, rockers, and oil pump, clean the pan and pick up tube too.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
you either don’t have guide plates or some Ford rockers have giude rails on either side of the rocker contact point to keep the valve from squirming around. If these are after market rollers then the previous owner got the wrong rocker arms and there is nothing to keep your rocker arms square to the valve stem and youe wearing your pushrods out badly. DO NOT RUN THIS ENGINE ANY MORE!! your heading for MAJOR head rebuild if you do
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
This is an easier procedure with a Chrysler big block engine. I like how MoPar used a rocker shaft, rather than the individual rocker mounts.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
hey I used to have a duster 73 that had a slant6 until my parents sold it without asking me I was PISSED! Anyhow those slant6 have hell alot of torque than horsepower.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Thanks for having this video here! I with my brother’s help am rebuilding a 1980’s slant6 in a Dodge D150 shortbed (it’s on Wikipedia) and this was a holdup besides the weather here in Alaska in getting the truck back on the road. I learned a lot with this video. THANKS!
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
really great videos. i have adjustable rockers and hydraulic lifters. When i find the closing event for #1, do I adjust BOTH the intake an exhaust lash at that time? or only the intake then repeat whole procedure for exhausts?
thx
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Thanks for the help! But… the roller tips aren’t rolling off the intake manifold or exhaust side of the valve tips, its side to side, or from firewall to engine fan. Any ideas? Thanks again
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Hydraulic lifters in combination with rockers are adjusted with too much slack will “chatter” when running. This clacking-chatting noise will be more severe when there is more slack and will be heard coming from under the valve covers as the sounds are created by the slack between the rockers tips and the valve tips as the lifters push and then relax tension on the pushrods.
Engines with solid lifters need to keep a bit of clearance between the rockers and valve tips because of heat expansion.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
if the rockers are not adjusted what happens? i mean is there any specific sound you can hear and understand that?
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
By the way…My reply above that your pushrods are too long is based on my assumption that your roller rocker tips are getting close to rolling off of the valve tip side that is closest to the outside of the engine (the exhaust exit side of the head).
If your pushrods are too short, the the roller tips would be closer to the intake manifold side of the valve tips.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Your pushrods are too long.
Replacement pushrods can be found in different length increments of .050″.
Figure out what length will give you the correct roller tip positioning on one of the valves and but a set of pushrods at that length.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
You guys have some great vids! I have a 67 Mustang with a 302 out of a later model. It has aluminum heads and roller rockers, and Im having a problem with the roller tips being too far to the side of the valve stems, and some of them are close to rolling off the sides. How can I correct this? Thanks for the help
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Pretty much yes, as you described.
You’re looking for the closing event of the #1 intake valve though, not the cylinder itself. The cylinder comes up twice through the four strokes, once for compression and the next time for the exhaust stoke, then repeats.
With no timing cover in place you’d be able to line up the timing marks and adjust the #1 cylinder only. Then you’d have to determine the closing events of each of the other cylinders to properly adjust them, just follow the firing order.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Oh i get it now. So i will have to rotate engine again till i see cylinder #1 close then adjust the rocker arms right and then so on throughout the firing order. Am I correct. I thought it would of been top dead center since i had centered both timing gears i guess i was wrong. Thanx for your good video and your help
.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
You would only know if you were on the actual TDC for #1 cylinder if you had the heads, valve train + rocker arm installed and were looking for the valve events as described in this video (or the follow up of the Final Assembly of cylinder heads in our DVD). When you’re at #1 cylinder closing event of the intake lifter for #1 cylinder (stock camshafts only) you can then adjust the valve lash to “zero” for the #1 intake, add the extra half turn and follow through along the firing order.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Good video. I am about to adjust my 350s rocker arms that i rebuilt. and before i put the oil pan and heads i left the engine with piston #1 in TDC. So would that mean I can tighten up cylinder 1 rocker arms and then go on through the firing order.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Every one of our videos on YouTube has our web address under the BoxWrench Logo at the top right. Check out our store for engine videos.
There are also links in the (more info) area just below the logo that go directly to the videos product pages.
Thanks for posting!
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
thanks for the informative video..do you have any idea where i can get or buy a full dvd version of your vid or any informative videos regarding automotive mechanics from engine,starting system,ignition system,fuel system,lubricating system,cooling system, auto electrical system that includes charging and lighting system.power train or drive train system,underchassis that includes suspension,steering and breaking system? i live in queens NY. thanks.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Thanks thats very usefull
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
You only need to use a feeler gauge between the rocker tip and valve tip when doing lash on an engine that has Solid Lifters.
The majority of engines these days have Hydraulic Lifters that run much more quietly. You set some “pre-load” on the lifters and then oil pressure builds up in the lifter and keeps pressure against the rocker to keep it from chattering while the engine runs.
Solid (Mechanical) Lifters generally are a bit chattery sounding, but you do need to run them with clearances.
July 4th, 2009 at 2:35 am
what about the feeler guage? don’t you need to follow spec’s for at least .001 clearnce?